30 November, 2008

KL and Itinerary Changes

What a fabulously modern city! We are having a brilliant time exploring Chinatown, sampling exotic foods like Malay and Moroccan (yum!), taking the monorail (I'm convinced we need one in Cali) and walking the city. Tomorrow we will climb the tower, see the city gardens and do a city bus tour. On the 2nd we will depart for Singapore before going to New Delhi.

Thoughts of Thanksgiving

We spent Thanksgiving on a 20 hour bus journey from Phuket to Kuala Lumpur (KL), eating power bars, chocolate milk and cookies from 7-11 because that's all we could grab before our hasty departure. As I'm sure you've read: Bangkok airport has been closed due to riots and anti-government protests. I spent the journey thinking of how grateful I am for an education, a savior who loves me unconditionally, a husband I'm having a blast seeing the world with, family, friends and being citizens of the US and UK. How blessed we are!

Sadly, I thought about our American and British brothers and sisters who lost their lives in the heinous terrorist attacks in Mumbai all for having different religions and passports. With heavy hearts, we watch the news and current affairs in both India and Thailand (our last and next destinations) pondering humanity. A few days earlier, we walked the streets of Phuket, seeing many younger local women with much older Western men. One woman, or girl I should say as she didn't appear old enough to have hit puberty, held the hand of a man who looked very easily old enough to be her grandfather, but clearly wasn't. They sat across from us at a pizza parlor, her eating, looking terribly unhappy and staring around in silence. It broke my heart to see such a youthful, beautiful girl with so much of life ahead of her looking so sad and losing her innocence at such a young age, her innocence probably sold by her parents for pocket change. I wanted to go up to her and smile at her, to show her the kindness and goodness of people, to hug her and tell her that she is beautiful and of great worth in the eyes of her creator, but instead, due to a language barrier and cultural differences, I sat there and prayed for her instead.

What a world we live in, full of people with such capacity to promote both goodness and evil. The more hurt I witness in the world, both personally and in the headlines, the more I don't want to be just another person contributing nothing more than a carbon footprint. I truly desire to leave the world better than I found it. Too idealistic, unrealistic, optimistic...I don't mind...what do I lose for trying? I feel it's a win-win situation. I feel the real question is not why bother, but where to begin?

Snakes, Oh My!


On a tour, the guide sneakily dropped us off at a snake show. It was one of my worst nightmares brought to life. A man wandered around putting snakes on people to charge money for photos. Uncovered enclosures had snakes slithering and writhing all over each other. Rickety cages (which I suspect wouldn't pass US safety standards) held venomous snakes. After walking through the creepy zoo, we watched a show where men kissed cobras and dodged them as they tried to defend themselves (one snake was almost flung into the audience if he hadn't hit the wall- two inches higher and one terrified spectator would have had a cobra in their lap!), then they displayed (I kid you not) the male snake's double genitalia and carried the snakes in the audience for visitors to touch for good luck. Needless to say, I passed on the idea but the man dangled the thing in my lap.

As much as I am not a snake lover (the animal symbolized Satan in the Bible for a reason), I felt a strange sadness for the inhumane treatment of the serpents. Unfortunately, it becomes increasingly evident that Thailand is a tourism-driven nation and therefore the Thai people conform their lifestyles and occupations according to the needs and demands of the tourists, hence the inhumane shows for entertainment, rampant prostitution and the sale of mock designer goods. I can't help but sympathize with the Thai people who work hard for so little and as a result I have noticed they sometimes swindle or rip off tourists, often resorting to harassing sales techniques, insincere helpfulness to sell something or generally having a bitter outlook towards Westerners because they assume we're all rich and wasteful. It's a vicious cycle and both the tourism and poverty in Thailand remain.

Thailand Notes:

Ko Phi Phi off of Phuket was incredible! We stayed at a nice resort on the quieter part of the island and enjoyed the best red curry of our lives at a candlelight, beachfront dinner! I was so inspired by the meal, I took a pricey Thai cooking class from the head chef at the restaurant- it was such a unique learning experience. I can't wait to make some for my family at home.

To anyone considering travel to Thailand- without a doubt- go. Just pack lots of baby wipes and hand sanitizer. If you really hate cigarette smoke and pollution, bring a face mask like painters and manicurists wear- even the police and locals wear them around the city. Also, women need to bring clothes to cover their legs and shoulders while they are visiting temples.

Bangkok

Bangkok comes alive at night. Vendors begin to unpack their knock-off treasures on street side tables, food carts magically appear on each street corner, alleyways light up with neon lights... The local Thai cuisine is awesome, even made by street vendors, but prepare for a runny nose and watery eyes. Mild in Thailand is code for raging-hot spicy flavored! Thai massages are also a very affordable treat for about $10 US an hour. Thai massage is a mixture of assisted yoga, physical therapy and a deep tissue massage.

There are lots of wonderful, bustling day bazaars and night markets selling everything you could think of: gold jewelry, trinkets, animals, food and faux designer apparel (MBK and Siam Paragon are good places to see-although we missed them on this trip unfortunately). I wish we had the extra couple days to explore more. The other unique luxury in Bangkok is tailored clothes made in about 6 hours and fitted to your exact size. They make exquisite suits and evening dresses. Incredible!

Thailand's architecture is astounding- gold-plated, Asian-style, elaborate temples dot the city itself and are seen every 10 miles or so in the countryside. Some of the buildings while driving into Bangkok lead you to believe you are visiting a large, Western metropolis, but not so as the Thai architecture and culture comes to life on city streets.

29 November, 2008

Thailand

Bangkok is not for the faint of heart! The very name Bangkok is almost onomatopoetic, representing the city's loud, dynamic, frenzied side. Once you get past the traffic, dirtiness, humidity and polluted smells (now I understand why the Thais take up to 3 showers a day- one morning a car splashed a dirty puddle all over me), you discover the vitality, history and culture there. One obstacle we struggled with was the transportation. With the traffic, metered taxis are an impractically expensive way to navigate the city. Tuk-tuks (think half motorcycle, half seated cart) are either over-priced or very fairly priced if you agree to stop in several of their commissioned shops along the journey- this can take ages. Also you sit in the fumes of the city- which is immense. Tuk-tuk drivers, we have learned, are picky about where they drive to and often don't speak much English, we've been waved off more than once when they couldn't be bothered to take us. Thais are generally very direct and don't like beating around the bush- you're either pressured to do what they want or flat out refused but you're never confused about their intent.

Some of the best highlights of Bangkok are the Reclining Buddha, Wat Po and the Grand Palace. We had the pleasure of visiting the floating markets outside the city, going on a bamboo raft river tour, seeing the tiger temple (see video-one of the people kicking the ball at first is me) and riding an elephant through the Thai countryside.

20 November, 2008

Sydney


We're having a marvelous time in Sydney. So far we have visited Bondi and Manly beaches, taken a guided bike tour around the city (12 miles! A photo is on the right ---->), seen the Australian ballet at the Sydney Opera House, saw a documentary at the world's largest IMAX theatre, had a drink at the oldest pub in OZ, taken a ferry all around the harbor and we even spotted a few celebrities at the Australian premiere of the movie, "Australia," which happened to be down the street from our hostel.


Australia has decided to hide the sun from us, but fortunately it is still quite warm. There is so much to do and see in this city- we have been busy! A few highlights I recommend would be: The Rocks (the oldest part of Australian culture-this is where the convicts were originally sent), Harbor Bridge, Darling Harbor, Sydney Opera House, Hyde Park, Sydney Botanical Gardens, Circular Quay, Luna Park and the Sky Tower. Bondi and Manly are also musts. The local Blue Mountains are also quite spectacular and the caves there are said to be unique as well.


Tomorrow we are off to Bangkok, so we will bid adieu to Oz for now. We have sincerely enjoyed our time here and hope to be back sometime not in the too distant future.

16 November, 2008

Australia


Great Barrier Reef:

Great is in the title of this reef (I suspect) not just because of its immense size but also incredible beauty. We were so taken by the GBR that we added another day trip so we could not only scuba dive, but snorkel different parts of the reef. Imagine over 1,500 varieties of fish living in one area (even though this one area is over 2,000 kilometers long and can be seen from space)...every shape, size and pattern..not even Vera Wang or Tom Ford could have thought up such beautiful designs and vibrant, contrasting colors- truly a testament to God's magnificent skills as the creator of the universe. We saw jellyfish (hence the nasty stinger suits in the photos), hard and soft coral, loads of fish, stingrays and the largest barracuda we've ever seen even in captivity. The water was a very comfortable 28 degrees Centigrade and was a gorgeous shade of lucid, aquamarine. How small and insignificant I felt as a small swimmer in a vast ocean teeming with sea life and yet I felt a heartwarming feeling knowing that however small or insignificant I felt in comparison to the grander scale of the planet, I matter to my creator.

Sunshine Coast:

We had the good fortune of meeting some Ozzies in Fiji who suggested the Sunshine Coast over our plan to visit the Gold Coast, known for all-night partying and a Vegas-like atmosphere on the coastline. Opting for more of a cultural and relaxed experience, we went to the famous Australia Zoo- home of Steve Irwin, the infamous Croc Hunter. We had a wonderful time petting koalas and kangaroos, watching the tigers, feeding the elephants and witnessing croc feedings by the brave and slightly insane croc team at the zoo.

The next two days we spent in Mooloolaba and Noosa, north of Brisbane. They were quaint beach towns with expensive, but truly fabulous shops and restaurants in addition to beaches rivalling those in So Cal. Mooloolaba, in particular, has won many awards for its waterfront restaurants and outstandingly pristine beaches. Noosa's main street (Hastings Street) reminded me of a cross between Coronado and Newport Beach, California. Lovely! Brisbane was a lively city full of nightlife and great for walking around after dark.

Notes:

Australia has been amazing! There is always something to do, people are relaxed and friendly and the sights are well worth the long plane ride. One regret we have is not seeing Melbourne. It's been described to us as toned-down, family-oriented version of Sydney but with more character and charm. I can't wait to come back and visit!

Today we are off to Sydney- please check back for more updated photos.

09 November, 2008

Kiwi Adventures:

Skydiving:

We went skydiving in Queenstown with NZone. Nick and I both agree it was one of the most exhilarating experiences of our lives. Nick had a nice American tandem-master from San Diego who did a few flips with him once they jumped out. I had a six-foot-five Serbian man named Sasha who was a major jokester and told me it was his first jump, but not to worry as he has read the entire manual and felt prepared. Fortunately he turned out to be the head of the entire program with over 23 years experience and 16,000 plus dives under his belt.

From a nine-seater plane, we were dropped twice the height of the nearest mountain. From 12,000 feet we tandem-jumped to enjoy views of Lake Wakatipu, the Aspiring mountain range, Mt. Cook (the tallest mountain in NZ) and the Dart River. We also braved -13 degrees C air as we plunged 120 MPH, freefalling for over 45 seconds...what a rush! Unfortunately the photos were way too pricey as you have to pay for a photographer to jump with you, however, a random British videographer asked to videotape me, so hopefully the video will pop up on You-Tube one day.

Queenstown:

Truly, one of the most scenically stunning places I've ever been. Queenstown in lakeside, nestled in between a valley and the Aspiring mountain range, very near Glenorchy where Lord of the Rings trilogy and the Narnia series were filmed. Even for a small town, it had many shopping venues, eateries, activities and varied types of accommodation. One of the best views of the town (other than from a plane), would be from the top of a mountain facing Queenstown. A gondola takes you up the mountainside where there is a luging course, bungy jumping and a restaurant at the top. There are also many hiking trails. The views were spectacular (although this seems to be common in NZ)!

Christchurch:

Christchurch was quite honestly another typical city. We did take the bus to Cashmere to enjoy tea and "Christchurch's best eggs benedict" in a small castle on a hillside overlooking the city. The breakfast was awesome!

The Avon River is also a very pleasant spot to take punt rides on a hosted gondola or to sit and read on the riverbanks. There is a busy city center called Cathedral Square where you will find the city's only cathedral. This Wednesday is the start of the Cup and Show Week here in Christchurch where visitors come visit the city to enjoy art and fashion shows as well as horse- racing and a rodeo. That sounds like a brilliant time and I'm sorry we're missing it. Tomorrow we are off to Brisbane, Oz.

06 November, 2008

Greetings from the land of the Kiwis!

Kia ora!

First impressions:

We so easily filled 11 days with activities and points of interest, we've decided we must return and have already managed to make a list of places to see next time. I consider myself extremely lucky to reside in So Cal, the bar has been set extremely high, and NZ has not failed to dazzle me with its charm and beauty. If heaven looks anything like NZ, I will not be disappointed.

Nature:

Vineyards, glaciers, mountains, parks, bays, beaches, lakes, rivers, sounds...you get the idea...this place is truly a nature lover's paradise. NZ seems to have made a real commitment to wildlife conversation with its endless national parks and marine reserves. With merely 4 million people on both islands, most of which on the north island, nature reigns here. The untarnished beauty I have encountered has repeatedly taken my breath away.

Old MacDonald's Farm:

What a charming nursery school song, but what a misleading and cunning name for the lodge we stayed at in Abel Tasman National Park on the northeastern tip of the south island. The farm did indeed have horses, chickens, peacocks, roosters (who crowed very early) and a surreal mountainside setting. It also had detached toilets and showers far enough away that one was more tempted to pee in the bushes than brave the cold, dark journey at night. The sheets were unwashed and sprinkled with dirt and we had ants, spiders, mozzies and mice for roommates who were kind enough to leave droppings on us as we slept. The next morning I finally worked up the courage to emerge from my personal sheet cocoon I brought from home and ventured to the toilets to find smoke pouring into my stall from the man in the stall next to me. Delightful. And so I have learned a few lessons: hats cover a multitude of hair faux pas, wear flip flops on any surface which appears suspicious, always bring lots of extra clean underpants and baby wipes literally are a multi-practical gift from God when you are traveling, like manna from heaven.

City of Sails (Auckland):

The very best of Auckland, I've discovered is oceanside and on the water. Nick and I took a ferry to a neighboring island covered in black, crumbly volcanic rock and fauna. We trekked four miles to the top of the crater where we relished spectacular panoramic views of the surrounding islands and the most incredible view of the Auckland skyline complete with a harbor and coastline spotted with bleach-white sailboats. Well worth the hike!

Kaikoura:

Imagine a place where you can see cerulean-blue ocean, snow-capped mountains and forest green valleys all in one view. This is what we saw as we drove into the area. Breathtaking! The lodge (thank you, Mark!) had the most amazing views of the nearby mountains and valley. We truly could not have asked for better scenery.

Fire scare:

I was drinking some tea and watching a tv program on the election results when to my surprise and horror, I saw black smoke billowing from the mountainside opposite the home where we were staying. Orange flames dances up and down the mountain wall and embers floated toward us in the strong winds. We were scared senseless by the speed and ferocity of the fire. Within minutes, it had covered the mountainside across from the home. Being California residents and no strangers to evacuation, Nick and I grabbed our passports and quickly fled back up the main road to safety. Speeding down the gravel road, we passed the neighbors we had met the day before as they drove in the opposite direction towards the fire. We naturally waved them down and asked what they were doing. Turns out it was a planned burning because the wind conditions were just right that day as to contain the fire and burn the pesky bushes which had been growing all over the mountainsides. We finally started breathing again, although the air was still quite ashy. Our adrenalin was still pumping vigorously as we had no idea the fire was planned! Our kind neighbor, Ricky, and his son then took us on a wonderful 4X4 mountain trekking tour (one thousand meters up) leaving the fire and the dirty air below us and giving us a bird's eye view of the entire valley.

Queenstown and sporting adventures:

Today we went on a jet-boating adventure down the Dart River where they filmed the Lord of the Rings trilogy. We got to whiz down a very shallow, rocky river nestled in between snow-capped mountains. We were FREEZING, but the sights were incredible. It turns out that this backdrop is used to film many commercials and films that are meant to be set in the Rockies or the Alps as well, but it is for some odd reason cheaper to film here in NZ.

Tomorrow (deep breath) we are skydiving! I'll be sure to write more about that after the fact.