06 January, 2009

India

Our time in India was sadly cut short by the Bangkok riots, but on the bright side, we got to see Malaysia and Singapore. In India, we did a tour of Delhi, the Red Fort and, of course, the Taj Mahal. The thing that struck me about India was that it is a country of contrasts: rich and poor, old and new, high and low class, progress and tradition. On the same street you could see a super-luxury hotel running about $800 a night and also see starving street children begging for money on the roadside. Without a doubt, I was captivated and heartbroken by my brief encounter with this unusual country.

So many countless women, handicapped males and children tapped on our car window to get money. Some of which had no legs or legs which were so deformed, they couldn't walk upright, so they couldn't so much as peer into the window. Instead they scratch at the door and windows with their fingertips. It was just not possible to help everyone who asked and when you did give something, swarms of people would approach the car, trying to reach their hands into the windows or open the car doors. If we gave food, they wanted money, if you gave money, they wanted more. It felt like we couldn't do anything to make a dent in the poverty and hopelessness we experienced firsthand.

Those who didn't beg found other ways to earn money such as charging for toilet paper in the bathrooms or to use the restroom in the first place, to take a photo or carry your luggage. While we understand why they did these things, the frustrating part for us as tourists was that we would be handed items for sale or would have services provided for us which we did not consent to or even ask for, and we were still charged for them. For example, luggage would automatically be grabbed from our hands once we got out of a car, it would be moved literally two steps and money would be demanded. It become quite tedious to carry small change to give out and sometimes we'd be charged obscene amounts for assistance we didn't even want in the first place. We had to learn to be firm, if not forceful, to hold onto our own items if for no other reason, to avoid the risk of having our luggage stolen.

Most upsetting, however, was the stares we got, particularly in my direction as a western female. India was the worst country in terms of the stares we received, however, I must add that they looked generally innocent and curious even if accompanied by pointed fingers and whispers. I had about 5 people I came in contact with who once they figured out I was American, shared the kindest words of gratefulness and admiration about our country. Nick and I learned to greet the stares and glances with a genuine smile and wave which more often than not, particularly with children, was met with a giant grin and enthusiastic waves in return. One child even followed our car, waving and blowing kisses.

On the other hand, the architecture, food, handicrafts and history we witnessed was abundant. One could easily spend months there and not soak up half the culture. I really wish I had the opportunity to visit and blend in as a local, to be charged fair prices for their beautiful goods (to get an idea- one marble table cost $20,000 US and a cashmere scarf cost $1,000- this was the lowest prices I got while bargaining. Guides obviously take you to places where they charge more and receive kickbacks), to not be stared at or pointed out or bombarded as a so-called "rich westerner. "

I found the culture so fascinating! We had the good fortune of having a young, local college student for a guide in Delhi. He was very forward thinking and open-minded which allowed us to discuss with him the realities of the current political and social climate in India. He openly talked about the restrictions he felt by his family as a member of the upper-class and part of the Hindu religion. While this allowed him certain opportunities, it also dictated who he married, what he studied, where he lived and what career he had to pursue. Cultural and religious expectations restricted him to marry someone of his own caste and religion and firmly dictated that he could not intermingle with anyone of a lower class, even to help them.

These ideas are so ingrained in India society, yet I saw a glimpse of hope in speaking with this young man, only a few years my junior. I saw hope and promise for the future of India in this student as he expressed his love for democracy, education, equality, progress and freedom. Truly, this was further confirmation of my opinion that education in third world countries is one of the greatest solutions if they are to achieve progress, equality and freedom in all forms.

And finally, I must discuss the magnificent, marble-chiseled Taj Mahal. Hands-down, it was the best part of our stay in India. It was a wonder of 17th century architecture, the details were superb! No wonder it took 22 years to complete! We discovered the king who commissioned it (in honor of his late wife who died in childbirth), had a vision to create an identical one in black onyx on the opposite side of the river. His son was convinced his father had lost his mind and would spend the entire royal fortune, so he arrested and jailed his father, keeping him imprisoned for the rest of his life in the Red Fort, with only a view of the Taj Mahal and visits from his daughter to console him. Nice guy!

We would love to go back to India one day to see Shimla and the sacred Ganges River in Varanasi. Seeing Everest and Kathmandu in Nepal is also on our list- what an extraordinarily unique part of the world they are in!

04 January, 2009

Ethiopia

One fact which left an undeniable impression on me on this trip was that Africa is a place riddled by corruption and the struggle for power. As a result, there is a very clear division between rich and poor and a dismal lack of efficient, adequate government facilities such as schools, hospitals, roads and general government-run services due to government corruption. Ethiopia is certainly no exception and even in my brief visit, it became increasingly apparent that most assistance for citizens and residents comes from western tourists and aid organizations. The combination of corrupt government and charitable handouts from westerners and non-profits has resulted in a society of beggars and the perpetually unemployed. Some who are employed, are underpaid, and resort to siphoning money from their organizations , demanding large tips or ripping off tourists to supplement income.


Another surprise for me was the non-stop attention and stares we received as "firanges" (white people). There wasn't one street we walked or drove down where we weren't stared at like aliens, asked for money or were shouted at: "firange, hey you!" It was exhausting, a little disturbing and surprising because we are used to living in culturally, multi-ethnic areas where no one particular race is singled out.



On a positive note, Ethiopia is incredibly rich in terms of natural resources, ancient history and archaeological finds. Nick and I had the opportunity to see the Lucy skeleton, archaeological remains of the oldest an most complete human fossil ever found to date. We also saw the oldest carbon dated child's skull ever discovered. Fascinating!



The best part of our time in Addis Ababa was spent visiting schoolchildren and an orphanage. We had a chance to visit a branch of the late Mother Theresa's global charity in Addis called Missionaries of Charity. Despite the fact that the nuns there (who in my opinion are saints) have given their hearts and lives for these children, there simply isn't enough resources to sufficiently nurture the overwhelming amount of kids who need a home. One of our kind friends and his lovely girlfriend, who volunteer there each Saturday, introduced us to the center.

Children aged 3-11 gathered from all four corners of the asphalted quadrangle courtyard to meet the curious white strangers. Handicapped kids with deformities walked to us, some with eczema, polio, TB, hepatitis possibly, burned faces, gaping sores, hunchbacks, crusty lips, noses and eyes, lice...and yet they smiled up at us, held our hands, stroked our arms and kissed our cheeks. All children, from all over the world, crave the same thing above anything...to be loved. And so we loved them. It was easy to do when they showed so much curiosity and affection toward us. We did this only a few short days and yet the nuns we met were severely underpaid and overworked but served these children daily. I have a profound admiration and respect for them.



We fed the severely mentally and physically handicapped children, some of which suffered from Parkinson's disease, autism, blindness, and various impairments derived primarily from physical abuse and malnourishment. Although the staff truly did the best they could, they were too shorthanded to give each child individual affection in addition to bathing, feeding, diaper-changing and putting them to sleep. I held the hand of a blind child who cradled his knees into his chest, rocking himself in the corner. He squeezed my fingers every so often and would touch my arm to make sure I was still there.

Many of the children cried because they wore plastic bags fashioned into diapers that leaked and left their beds and clothes soiled. We discovered many generous companies and individuals have donated practical items such as diapers, but the import tax imposed by customs is so ridiculously high, despite already being paid for, that non-profits cannot afford to pay it. As a result, the government keeps the items, auctions them off and keeps the profits. Such was the case when a Spanish company donated a gigantic crate of diapers to Mother Theresa's, but the government demanded an unrealistic 60,000 Birr or about 6,000 USD for it in taxes. The tax was worth more than the diapers! The same charges go for any items shipped or brought into the country that are considered "excess." And buying imported goods within Ethiopia costs nearly three times as much as it would cost abroad, so only local goods are affordable.

One moment I will forever cherish was seeing the nursery. About 20 of the most gorgeous, innocent eyes peeked up at me and I got to hold their tiny, precious little fingers. One little girl in particular (her name was Theresa) smiled up at me in such a way that I had to hold her. She had a smile that could melt an iceberg. I almost cried thinking of how we could've given her a home in America, a life with opportunity, education, access to health care... The words, "no family," will remain emblazoned in my mind. The only hope I felt was knowing orphanages like Missionaries of Charity are making a difference and also seeing many wealthy westerners with their newly adopted children.

I wish from the deepest depths of my heart that all these wonderful children, gifts from God, are adopted into homes where they are cared for and loved as they inherently deserve. I pray God blesses organizations such as this one and the people who run them. May they always have pure motives and honest reward in their hard work.

Thoughts on America

In speaking with Sister Freda in Kenya (I will discuss our poignant visit with her in a following blog) and observing the local businesses such as US Aid, I was blown away by the services America provides to Kenya in both the non-profit and government health care sectors. I even discovered the US provides (and fully funds) free, yes, free doses of the aids retrovirus medicine in Kenya. In addition, I lost count of non-profits which contribute in terms of volunteer manpower and monetarily to better this country. While I think this is important and genuinely needed, I can't help but feel that on a global scale America is stretching itself too thin.

As a result, the US has a deteriorating economy, weakened infrastructure, suffering education system and a government which has lost the faith of the American people and favor in international politics. President-elect Obama, of Kenyan descent, came two years ago as a state senator to Kenya and boldly called out the Kenyan government's agenda and challenged the country's leadership to make certain changes for the benefit of the nation. This is a man hell-bent on change. As the future President of the United States, I sincerely hope he can deliver his promises for the good of America and the nations affected by the choices made by the US as a superpower. I also hope that as the government prepares to switch posts, America will take a good, hard look at itself and make positive, constructive change in the states before reaching outwards. How can we properly provide accountability and aid to other countries when we are in major debt and in desperate need of repairs ourself?

I say this partially because we need to realize limited funds and resources only stretch so far before we bleed dry, partly because we look like hypocrites trying to fix others when we have so many issues of our own, partly because we have started to care more in ways for the needy abroad than internally (perhaps because its trendy and sometimes easier to help strangers than our own neighbors) but mostly because we have a responsibility to use government funds to serve and assist the American people as a first priority. As a Christian, I absolutely support and insist on helping the less fortunate, but charity begins in the home and America is our home.

We tax, take, gather and give out to various causes and countries around the world without inwardly reflecting on our own issues and shortcomings, often meeting immediate needs, instead of developing strategies for long-lasting change which will promote self-sufficiency. Perhaps its generosity, perhaps we see ourselves as a sort of caretaker, watchdog or savior or the world, but we never stopped to consider that America may be in need of saving too. It's time for our government to reassess what's working and not working, then seek out realistic solutions. No other country is interested in helping America with its own problems, so if our own government won't make improvements, who will? I am in no way urging people to stop giving abroad (in fact, I éspecially encourage giving time or food, adopting, educating, etc.), I am just asking for us to rexamine the best way to create a long-term, positive impact abroad while also trying to meet the needs of our less-fortunate neighbors here in the states we have an obligation to help get back on their feet.

If we don't stop and pay attention to our wounds or stop the bleeding, our problems will only become exacerbated and we will be in danger of bleeding dry, robbing ourselves and future generations. Let us work on our debts ad find proper solutions to our own wounds before attempting to heal the afflictions of others. How did we end of spending so many billions of US dollars to save a country that didn't even ask to be saved and now wants us out, meanwhile we have ignored the needs of our own people? This has ultimately resulted in a myriad of current national dilemmas and a catastrophic debt which the next generation will be paying off for years to come. The younger generation of Americans are left to wonder where the money will come from to support our social security and other government funded services down the road.

Government expenditures must be taken with careful consideration and sober caution if we want to improve our currently dire fiscal situation and preserve the future for upcoming generations. And when we extend assistance to other nations militarily, financially and in practical ways, I pray we invest wisely and in some cases with specific thoughtfulness for the good of both the US and beneficiary nations. I share this observation with sadness but also with an intention of creating truly lasting solutions to world problems instead of throwing money at them: many countries America aids either don't want our help, want our money but don't desire change or want change but can't attain it without significant external intervention due to a poorly organized, corrupt or inefficient government. All this must be crucially addressed and taken into account in order for our help to develop any lasting, positive solutions globally.

01 January, 2009

Photo slideshow is up!


Please scroll further down to view a slideshow of our trip (it is located below the blog posts). Pardon the delay in typing up my journal entries. I will have them posted very soon. Until then, hope you enjoy the photos!

Nick and I in Brugge, Belgium

27 December, 2008

Singapore

The first thing that struck me about Singapore was how immaculate it was. I also noticed all the beautiful Christmas decor which adorned the entire city, particularly at Clark Quay and Orchard Road at night. Nick and I also enjoyed having dinner at the Chijmes, a wonderful restaurant row of sorts.

We got to visit my Dad's old stomping grounds at the American Club, Merlion Park, Raffles Place and Chinatown where we had the best Chinese food we've ever had. If we had more time, I would have liked to visit Sentosa Island, a theme park, arcade and entertainment venue all rolled into one.

23 December, 2008

Our second home!

We are safely in London, really loving our time with family here. As promised, I will update you on India, Ethiopia and Kenya (to the left is a sneak peak of photos to be posted). As these countries were the most challenging, rewarding and blessed part of our trip, I have a lot to catch you all up on. Since I did not have access to the Internet at that time, I will be transcribing my journal entries online in the next few days. Hope you are enjoying this special Christmas season and all of its delights- family, friends and the joy of Christ. Blessings!

02 December, 2008

The Mouse Incident

Had to tell you a funny story from a few days back...

We took a long-tail speedboat up the River Kwai to our accommodation- a floating hostel on the river. The floating huts swayed in the current, the thin bamboo-covered walls rocked from side to side...In true Thai style, the shower was a hose in the wall located above the toilet. Lacking plumbing, you had to shovel in water from a bucket to push the excrement out. Nick and I finally decided to catch some shut-eye despite the drunken Brits reveling outside our door with beers in hand, feet dangling in the water...the French couple next door enjoying their honeymoon in stereotypical (ho-ho-ho) fashion if you catch my drift... and the residents on the other side of us snoring like freight-trains. I finally lulled myself to sleep but awoke to hear a munch-munch-munch. The sound dissipated and I shrugged off any worry. My eyes closed. "Chomp, munch, crack!" Someone or something, for that matter, was trying to get in through our door. I tapped Nick awake, the crunching got louder. It was coming from under our floor, no, from outside our door. It's as if something was trying to get through our door. Nick flipped on the light but we saw nothing, so he got a flashlight and headed out the backdoor to investigate. I stood a few feet behind the door imagining what kind of creature was gnawing at our door. Either a crocodile or perhaps a mutant rat? I heard Nick say from the outside that he saw nothing. All of a sudden, a hole appeared inside the door. Two small illuminated eyes peeked out and out came a nose. It was a mouse- obviously on steroids- as it just ate through our door! Either that or we were right not to drink the local water. There is nothing we could do, clearly the room was his home and this explained the holes all over the walls. He was free to come and go as he pleased. Fortunately, I only heard him scurry across the floor at night but Nick saw him running across our palm-frond braided ceilings as we slept. Cheeky little thing!