One fact which left an undeniable impression on me on this trip was that Africa is a place riddled by corruption and the struggle for power. As a result, there is a very clear division between rich and poor and a dismal lack of efficient, adequate government facilities such as schools, hospitals, roads and general government-run services due to government corruption. Ethiopia is certainly no exception and even in my brief visit, it became increasingly apparent that most assistance for citizens and residents comes from western tourists and aid organizations. The combination of corrupt government and charitable handouts from westerners and non-profits has resulted in a society of beggars and the perpetually unemployed. Some who are employed, are underpaid, and resort to siphoning money from their organizations , demanding large tips or ripping off tourists to supplement income.
Another surprise for me was the non-stop attention and stares we received as "firanges" (white people). There wasn't one street we walked or drove down where we weren't stared at like aliens, asked for money or were shouted at: "firange, hey you!" It was exhausting, a little disturbing and surprising because we are used to living in culturally, multi-ethnic areas where no one particular race is singled out.
On a positive note, Ethiopia is incredibly rich in terms of natural resources, ancient history and archaeological finds. Nick and I had the opportunity to see the Lucy skeleton, archaeological remains of the oldest an most complete human fossil ever found to date. We also saw the oldest carbon dated child's skull ever discovered. Fascinating!
The best part of our time in Addis Ababa was spent visiting schoolchildren and an orphanage. We had a chance to visit a branch of the late Mother Theresa's global charity in Addis called Missionaries of Charity. Despite the fact that the nuns there (who in my opinion are saints) have given their hearts and lives for these children, there simply isn't enough resources to sufficiently nurture the overwhelming amount of kids who need a home. One of our kind friends and his lovely girlfriend, who volunteer there each Saturday, introduced us to the center.
Children aged 3-11 gathered from all four corners of the asphalted quadrangle courtyard to meet the curious white strangers. Handicapped kids with deformities walked to us, some with eczema, polio, TB, hepatitis possibly, burned faces, gaping sores, hunchbacks, crusty lips, noses and eyes, lice...and yet they smiled up at us, held our hands, stroked our arms and kissed our cheeks. All children, from all over the world, crave the same thing above anything...to be loved. And so we loved them. It was easy to do when they showed so much curiosity and affection toward us. We did this only a few short days and yet the nuns we met were severely underpaid and overworked but served these children daily. I have a profound admiration and respect for them.
We fed the severely mentally and physically handicapped children, some of which suffered from Parkinson's disease, autism, blindness, and various impairments derived primarily from physical abuse and malnourishment. Although the staff truly did the best they could, they were too shorthanded to give each child individual affection in addition to bathing, feeding, diaper-changing and putting them to sleep. I held the hand of a blind child who cradled his knees into his chest, rocking himself in the corner. He squeezed my fingers every so often and would touch my arm to make sure I was still there.
Many of the children cried because they wore plastic bags fashioned into diapers that leaked and left their beds and clothes soiled. We discovered many generous companies and individuals have donated practical items such as diapers, but the import tax imposed by customs is so ridiculously high, despite already being paid for, that non-profits cannot afford to pay it. As a result, the government keeps the items, auctions them off and keeps the profits. Such was the case when a Spanish company donated a gigantic crate of diapers to Mother Theresa's, but the government demanded an unrealistic 60,000 Birr or about 6,000 USD for it in taxes. The tax was worth more than the diapers! The same charges go for any items shipped or brought into the country that are considered "excess." And buying imported goods within Ethiopia costs nearly three times as much as it would cost abroad, so only local goods are affordable.
One moment I will forever cherish was seeing the nursery. About 20 of the most gorgeous, innocent eyes peeked up at me and I got to hold their tiny, precious little fingers. One little girl in particular (her name was Theresa) smiled up at me in such a way that I had to hold her. She had a smile that could melt an iceberg. I almost cried thinking of how we could've given her a home in America, a life with opportunity, education, access to health care... The words, "no family," will remain emblazoned in my mind. The only hope I felt was knowing orphanages like Missionaries of Charity are making a difference and also seeing many wealthy westerners with their newly adopted children.
I wish from the deepest depths of my heart that all these wonderful children, gifts from God, are adopted into homes where they are cared for and loved as they inherently deserve. I pray God blesses organizations such as this one and the people who run them. May they always have pure motives and honest reward in their hard work.
