Our time in India was sadly cut short by the Bangkok riots, but on the bright side, we got to see Malaysia and Singapore. In India, we did a tour of Delhi, the Red Fort and, of course, the Taj Mahal. The thing that struck me about India was that it is a country of contrasts: rich and poor, old and new, high and low class, progress and tradition. On the same street you could see a super-luxury hotel running about $800 a night and also see starving street children begging for money on the roadside. Without a doubt, I was captivated and heartbroken by my brief encounter with this unusual country.
So many countless women, handicapped males and children tapped on our car window to get money. Some of which had no legs or legs which were so deformed, they couldn't walk upright, so they couldn't so much as peer into the window. Instead they scratch at the door and windows with their fingertips. It was just not possible to help everyone who asked and when you did give something, swarms of people would approach the car, trying to reach their hands into the windows or open the car doors. If we gave food, they wanted money, if you gave money, they wanted more. It felt like we couldn't do anything to make a dent in the poverty and hopelessness we experienced firsthand.
Those who didn't beg found other ways to earn money such as charging for toilet paper in the bathrooms or to use the restroom in the first place, to take a photo or carry your luggage. While we understand why they did these things, the frustrating part for us as tourists was that we would be handed items for sale or would have services provided for us which we did not consent to or even ask for, and we were still charged for them. For example, luggage would automatically be grabbed from our hands once we got out of a car, it would be moved literally two steps and money would be demanded. It become quite tedious to carry small change to give out and sometimes we'd be charged obscene amounts for assistance we didn't even want in the first place. We had to learn to be firm, if not forceful, to hold onto our own items if for no other reason, to avoid the risk of having our luggage stolen.
Most upsetting, however, was the stares we got, particularly in my direction as a western female. India was the worst country in terms of the stares we received, however, I must add that they looked generally innocent and curious even if accompanied by pointed fingers and whispers. I had about 5 people I came in contact with who once they figured out I was American, shared the kindest words of gratefulness and admiration about our country. Nick and I learned to greet the stares and glances with a genuine smile and wave which more often than not, particularly with children, was met with a giant grin and enthusiastic waves in return. One child even followed our car, waving and blowing kisses.
On the other hand, the architecture, food, handicrafts and history we witnessed was abundant. One could easily spend months there and not soak up half the culture. I really wish I had the opportunity to visit and blend in as a local, to be charged fair prices for their beautiful goods (to get an idea- one marble table cost $20,000 US and a cashmere scarf cost $1,000- this was the lowest prices I got while bargaining. Guides obviously take you to places where they charge more and receive kickbacks), to not be stared at or pointed out or bombarded as a so-called "rich westerner. "
I found the culture so fascinating! We had the good fortune of having a young, local college student for a guide in Delhi. He was very forward thinking and open-minded which allowed us to discuss with him the realities of the current political and social climate in India. He openly talked about the restrictions he felt by his family as a member of the upper-class and part of the Hindu religion. While this allowed him certain opportunities, it also dictated who he married, what he studied, where he lived and what career he had to pursue. Cultural and religious expectations restricted him to marry someone of his own caste and religion and firmly dictated that he could not intermingle with anyone of a lower class, even to help them.
These ideas are so ingrained in India society, yet I saw a glimpse of hope in speaking with this young man, only a few years my junior. I saw hope and promise for the future of India in this student as he expressed his love for democracy, education, equality, progress and freedom. Truly, this was further confirmation of my opinion that education in third world countries is one of the greatest solutions if they are to achieve progress, equality and freedom in all forms.
And finally, I must discuss the magnificent, marble-chiseled Taj Mahal. Hands-down, it was the best part of our stay in India. It was a wonder of 17th century architecture, the details were superb! No wonder it took 22 years to complete! We discovered the king who commissioned it (in honor of his late wife who died in childbirth), had a vision to create an identical one in black onyx on the opposite side of the river. His son was convinced his father had lost his mind and would spend the entire royal fortune, so he arrested and jailed his father, keeping him imprisoned for the rest of his life in the Red Fort, with only a view of the Taj Mahal and visits from his daughter to console him. Nice guy!
We would love to go back to India one day to see Shimla and the sacred Ganges River in Varanasi. Seeing Everest and Kathmandu in Nepal is also on our list- what an extraordinarily unique part of the world they are in!
